Colli Orientali del Friuli 2012

The title of his blog Billigt Vin “means ‘Cheap Wine,’” writes Ingvar Johansson. “It’s a bit of a joke. When we started this thing most blogs wrote about very exclusive wines and from a very elitist perspective. We wanted to be the opposite of that… It’s also the title of the Michael Jackson’s ‘Billie Jean’ in swedish. A comedian made a cover and took the role of a bum when he sang it. I found it hilarious.”

He works “as a psychotherapist at a psychiatric clinic. Apart from that I do some supervision, consulting and teaching.”

This summer I spent a day in Colli Orientale del Friuli. In the morning I visited Dorigo and had a great time. It was a very professional tour and tasting.

For the afternoon tasting with Rosa Bosco (above), I crossed a gravely yard. The distance was about 30 yards but those few steps took me to another world and a totally different experience.

When I entered the house of Rosa Bosco there was one of Bach’s cello-concerts blaring from the hi fi. Rosa welcomed me and took me for a tour around the house. We ended up in a large kitchen built for country cooking. “Next time you come we will cook a great meal together here,” Rosa explained. “But now we must go to my cellar where lunch i prepared. Let’s go.”

Ok, let me give you some background information that might explain why I’m so excited about this visit. I first read about Rosa Bosco in Fred Plotkin’s excellent book Terra Fortunata. He mentioned Rosa Bosco as top of the line when it comes to Friulian wines and put her up there together with Miani. I tried to find gather some information about this winery through the internet but came up with very little. Then this opportunity occurred.

Rosa Bosco used to be married to Girolamo Dorigo. They ran their company together for three decades and played an integral part in making the wines of Colli Orientali del Friuli recognized outside the region, in Italy, and the rest of the world. When they separated in the 90s, Girolamo Dorigo continued running the Dorigo winery together with their two children and Rosa Bosco had no means to continue her work, no vineyards and no cellar.

In 1998 she started producing wine again with grapes she boughts from other producers and in a cellar rented from Mario Schiopetto. Rosa’s first two wines were a Sauvignon Blanc and a Merlot. Today she makes two more, a sparkling Chardonnay and a Ribolla Gialla. The total annual production is about 10,000 bottles.

We entered Rosa Bosco’s sun bleched and battered Volskvwagen and drove the 6 miles or so to Maimacco where she uses the cellar of Villa de Puppi. For the last couple of years Rosa has been working together with the de Puppi family, making her wine in their cellar. I get a guided tour through the garden and the cellar while the lunch is prepared. It quickly became evident that this would be no ordinary tasting. But a lunch where Rosa Bosco’s wine where served with the food… In their right element, you could say.

We eat the antipasti in the library. Trays of fantastic cold meats are served, a superb Prosciutto di San Daniele and great Ossocollo. With the meats, we drink Rosa Bosco Blanc de Blancs. 100% cChardonnay, fermented and raised in used barriques. Has a great smell that initially is yeasty and toasty. Generous tropical fruit, and a hint of green apples. Full taste, long, nutty and minerally. Good stuff.

We move into the dining room for the pasta. It’s served with a tomato sauce spiced with herbs and pieces of mozzarella. We drink the 2009 Ribolla Gialla. Raised partly in steel tanks and partly in used barriques. Flowery aromas, some citrus and vanilla. Taste is round and balanced with good acidity, good fruit and minerals.

We continue the tasting with 2007 Sauvignon Blanc. Rosa Bosco is a Francophile and uses the French name of the grape. This wine is fermented and aged for 10 month in 80% new and 20% used barrriques. Very elegant, perfumed aroma. The fruit and oak are really intertwined. Rosa Bosco might be a fan of Bach but this aroma is pure Mozart. The taste is exactly in the same vein. Full of life and lust. Tropical fruit, ripe peaches, pineapple and vanilla. Very long and persistent aftertaste.

The meal continues with cold roast beef all’inglese and cheese and we drink 2006 Boscorosso. 100 % Merlot matured for two years on barriques. It has a gorgeous nose of mature plums, strawberries and cherries. Some coffee, chocolate and vanilla. The taste of full-bodied, soft and round. Very nice fruit, some spice and vanilla. Good, silky tannins and very long aftertaste. Somehow this wine manages to be very elegant and playful at the same time. We also try the 2007 Boscorosso which is not yet on the market. It’s very much like the 2006 but more intense.

I had a really great afternoon in the company of Rosa Bosco and the De Puppi family. Warm, friendly and very generous people. I really hope I get the chance to take up on Rosa Bosco’s offer to cook together. The De Puppi family produces some really good wines under the Villa de Puppi label. The 100% Tocai 2009 Taj Blanc gives really good value and both the Sauvignon and the Refosco are more than worthwhile.

—Ingvar Johannson